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PH Writer Hailed ‘Filipino Food’s Greatest Champion’

The New York Times is all praise for late Filipino food writer and cultural historian Doreen Gamboa Fernandez.

Doreen Gamboa Fernandez, who is known for her dedication to Philippine culinary culture, has been dubbed by the outlet as “Filipino food’s greatest champion.”  

Written by Ligaya Mishan, she described Fernandez as someone who explored the cuisine from the bottom up. 

“Ms. Fernandez trained her attention on dishes low and high, from humble carinderias, the roadside stalls where the staff obligingly shooed away flies, and polished “tablecloth” restaurants that had once served almost exclusively American and Spanish food,” Mishan said. 

She added: “Ms. Fernandez never took this labor for granted, and in her work she honored it, focusing on home cooks, sidewalk vendors and those who rely on the earth’s bounty — farmers, fishermen and foragers.”

Fernandez was also a contributor of many notes and articles on Philippine theater in the Ateneo de Manila University before she died on June 24, 2002. 

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